Bit of coe action

I reckon I've climbed at tunnel wall 5 or 6 times now and still not done a route. It just isn't my thing. Meh, what you gonna do. I'm getting pretty close to Admission now, learning redpoint tactics from the master redpointer, Dave Redpath. Yup, flicking between holds and getting camped into rests are now part of my skill repertoire. Doing moves that you find easy over and over again can be a bit boring, and I'm not sure if it'll be worth it having never done a mega stamina fest before, but I'm quite psyched to get at least one under my belt. Other good bits about my day at tunnel wall were getting ski jump legs and star jump arms going at the same time, and swinging between Fated Mission and Admission to get the clips out.

The next day we made it up to the lost valley amid lots of funny looks from the tourists and odd comments such as 'now that's a rucksack!' from some walkers. This was because we were carrying boulder pads! Worth it? I thought so! Though Dave spent most of the time asleep, I got stuck into the leaning blocks crimps. Diesel Canary and Helipad are both quality problems and better from sitters. I had a minor epic on Helipad sitter, I think I put a tick mark in the wrong place. Eventually stuck the move but fell off the next move. Got it in the bag after working the next move without using the ground to jump.

I headed over the Glass Is Greener, which gets 7C,(7C+ when you factor in the walk). It took me a while to have a proper go at it, I couldn't find any real footholds. I never actually fully worked out the beta, until I stuck the first move to the micro crimp. From here I looked down at my feet. My right was on a tiny edge, I reckoned I needed it on the next one up. In the mean time I needed to find a left foothold. There wasn't any so I stuck it on the one earmarked for my right. Suddenly the problem made sense, I could stand up on my left and get my right just below my hand on a good foothold. Went for the sharp finger jug from here, my foot popped and I was left hanging by some skin which had caught the sharp lip... nice! I got my foot back on and went to re-adjust when my skin ripped and I was off. Gutted, but even more gutted when I looked at my finger which had lost a chunk of skin and was bleeding.

Dave had arisen at this point and was going to wait for me in the car. I figured ripping a flapper is probably a good point to call it a day, and still be psyched to go back!

Jawa Boulder

Went out bouldering the other day with Cath, made another vid. I don't like this one as much, it's too long. I wanted to show how fustrating I found these problems, but I think with these vids the best bet is to keep um short, sweet and simple.

Anvil

That walk doesn't get shorter second time round, goddamit!!

What's up everyone? Yesterday I was at the anvil which means I had 2 days sport climbing on the trot. Was out out with Nic, Ben, Stew and Dave Redpath. Obviously with so much clipping and hanging on a rope I was bit spiritually a-miss and went back to my comfort zone of bouldering!

Those two problems are on the steep wall just next to the Anvil. Landings are good but for one boulder which I padded out with my rucksack, jacket and midge net. The first one is a brilliant one mover off some crimps which are a bit small. Boost told me I was too weak to pull on them which got me psyched. It climbs like the Shield at dumby 'cept it's not hard to get your foot up, and the top hold is a finger jug so it's a bit easier. The second one, I wanted to climb the arete but it didn't turn out like that. There are no holds on the arete higher up, so did a cool windmill move up to a good crimp then traversed back to the arete.

I realise no one is going to take bouldering seriously at the Anvil so that why I'm going to call them silly names... What about; Raindrops on Roses, Font 7A+ for the first one, and Whiskers on Kittens, Font 7A for the arete-ish one and I've just guessed the grades, hahaha.

After this I was persuaded to try an 8b on account of it has a really hard boulder problem unfortunately located above a big hole. That got me psyched; good effort from the Redpath on the FA, sounded like a real battle. With little skin, I managed all the moves on spitfire again tho still no decent sized links.

P.S. I told everyone to do a mass blogging but I think I might get left hanging...!!

Dumbuck Psyche

Finally made it to Dumbuck. I've obviously known about this crag for about 3 years but never been up. Bit pathetic really. Anyway, I'm in glasgow just now, unemployed, so have got too much free time almost.

Boost and I have headed up to the crag twice now and I think it's ace! The routes are basically long boulder problems so that means I can actually do them, with the pump only just coming in on the last moves. Today I managed 2 really nice 7c+'s, but really it should've been one because I fell off the top move of Flesh For Fantasy the day before. The other route was Awaken which I thought was a bit easier once you work out what to do, but still good. Nonetheless, I'm taking it as my best ever day sport climbing tick-wise and not a bad day for other things either. We made it up the hill much easier than previously, and we had a couple of Yazoo's chocolate milkshakes which were on offer at a shop on the way.

World tour of Scotland

Had a busy week or so cruising around Scotland in a Ford Ka. The weather was a bit mixed but we had a good time doing some touristy and some not so touristy things. Mostly just driving around but tried to stop as much as possible... Here's some pics that I didn't put on flickr.

Driving up the North East coast didn't have much rock to distract me from driving. Stopped in Helmsdale for some trifle and chocolate mouse made by Cath's mum.

We went to Orkney. Here's Cath at Skara Brae. She found cows more interesting than the 5000 year old settlement.

Neanderthals can't grade for shit.

There was one missing.

After Orkney we drove along the north coast for a bit. Stopping here to work on my handstand. Still not quite getting it.

Impressive Smoo Cave would make an amazing sport crag... Bit ming tho.


Made it to the bloodstone for a quick boulder.

And on to this place.

I liked Sandwood bay. It's just massive. There's a line in Stone Country guide, 'even the most dedicated boulderer might be distracted by grander things!' and I was determined to not get distracted.

Some excellent rock here, enough to keep me occupied for a day. The best thing about the place is simply exploring the Geos and crags. I remember at one point just running the length of an empty bay as fast as I could for no real reason. Maybe did get distracted a bit. Could describe more of the climbing but the best bit is exploring yourself so not going to.

I loved the waves here. The sun was setting and back lit the crests giving them an amazing green-blue colour. Camera doesn't do it justice.

Got soaked walking out of Sandwood bay, then we got a flat tyre.

This is Cleric's Wall at Rhue. Rate this venue pretty highly. Went to Ullapool after this for a pub supper then back to Inverness.

Next day we headed to Cummingston for some trad. Is it just me, or have a load of pebbles disappeared from the beach?

Then, finally, headed to Dunkeld for some unfinished business...

Enjoying some victory custard after climbing the problem at dunkeld. Well, it's there, somewhere in the woods. If your looking for it, find the direct approach path to uppercave and follow it downhill till you get to a big broadleafed tree bout half way to the main path. It's just the other side of that.

Think it looks a bit like a lightning bolt which made be want to call it something like pikachu or harry potters forehead. I've managed to refrain however, and have thought of the name Electric Feel. Struggled to grade it... It's around 7B/+ i think.

Also discovered super macro setting:

Procrastinating...

Still in the thick of exams, Optics this morning - it's amazing how much you think you've learnt about lasers in a day only to find that you don't really know it at all, goddamit!

Taken a couple of afternoons off to head to dumby.

Looking out the window on the train I reckoned you get a decent cross sectional impression of Glasgow. High rise flats juxtaposed with tenements, the big cranes on the clyde of the past, the Scotston sports thing getting done up for 2014, loads of trampolines in gardens and a saltire on the roof of a garden shed. On the way back, I alighted a station early. I felt like a prat asking for directions with a massive bouldering pad... It's easy to think you're getting on fine when in fact you're living in a bubble or a looking through a window. Even though I've lived here for 3 years I don't really know much about the place (eg apparently theres a park the size of the west end somewhere) and I feel this is a poor effort. Next year is my last at uni so will try to engage more with this place but i'm not sure what that would actually involve doing.

Anyway, at Dumby I found that I was not as weak as I had feared! I managed a move on sabotage which got me quite excited. Also tried the B.N.I. lip traverse which I'm sure was done years ago but I've never heard anyone talk about it which makes me feel like a true pioneer and visonary. None of the holds are independent but there's some new moves to work out... The first move is the crux involving a dynamic throw to the BNI direct crimp which is just made for catching! The rest is ok except the top out... I worried I'm turning into a lowballer, not comfortable high up anymore...

Unlike:




Yes, I've put some procrastinating to good use and put together a clip of last years trip to Sagres.

Now, Quantum Mechanics... er...

There is no easy bread

I think that's a polish saying, even if it isn't I think it's more resonant if you say it (out loud or otherwise) with an eastern European accent. Basically, I'm trying to motivate myself to work for exams. What I think I've learnt is no matter how many times you say you 'should' do something you're talking shit so shut up and get on with it. 'Should' is the least convincing word. As soon as someone says they should do something, you know they won't or at least they don't want to...

Which brings me on to will power. I tried to give up chocolate for lent, I don't eat loads of chocolate in the first place, so easy peasy self gratification. I had it up till a few days before Easter when i tucked into an Easter egg. Rather than admit failure, I'm blaming the fact that I didn't really care about it... I only gave it up as a joke, so who cares? What I'm trying to say is that is probably more important to do the things you don't care about because if you do care about something you'll probably going to do it anyway. Take blogs, I don't really care about blogs, but I'm trying to do a post here.

So what climbing has been going down since last post? Well, not Terradets. Ticket booking cock up. Just as well, that training plan was a bit crazy.

Found a bad ass boulder problem near upper cave crag. Some people may think bouldering next to amazing sport and trad routes is silly, but they're just short sighted! I'm dead keen to get back there... Put it this way, I know first ascent mongering isn't everything, when you don't have you're trad rack, and the sport wall is occupied, whatcha gonna doo?

Went to the Anvil for the first time with the J-Dawg and Dave Redpath. It's super cool, the cave is mega and the side wall is of excellent quality. I did a 7a, the all the moves on Spitfire but nowhere near linking them together... Had a play on a 8b+ (Bodyspitblowswervefire) and did 2 moves which i thought wasn't a bad effort. Only a couple more then a big jug, followed by an 8a+.... Psyched to go back there as well.

Blog fans will remember the past couple of years I've spent a few days as a budding lamb farmer person and this year was no different. My favourite jobs are catching sheep, using the crook, feeding the orphan pet lambs and bedding pens with straw. My Least favourite jobs are castration of male lambs, anything to do with poo (smelly), disinfecting pens (boring) and feeding sheep the yucky silage. I'm yet to actually properly lamb a sheep, basically because I'm scared of getting my arm stuck or something.

This fine looking lamb was found down a rabbit hole, chilled and nearly dead. I'm pretty sure I single handedly saved it with TLC, the use of the heat box (lamb oven) and some tasty milk. Word is, she's now running around the hills as happy as can be... Not baaad, eh?

I went back to Inverness for Easter and had three days climbing, one at Duntelchaig, one at Glen Nevis and another at Torridon.



At Duntelchaig, the boost and I went up to pinnacle crag where we top roped Sare which used to be E4 but now is harder because holds and pegs have come off. After linking it on a top rope after a while I went for it as a highball boulder problem. There is a small nut to be placed which would great if you thought you'd blow the top move. But it's also great not to bother, but also pretty silly... or is it??


At Glen Nevis, Boost and I, Murdo and Pete enjoyed some excellent sunshine, first at polldudh where Boost and I did some bouldering and then The Fang which was good fun seeing as it was a bit wet. We then power walked up the glen (or my case struggled - an old grannie we passed said something like "go on, you can run up there!" I was like argg I'm pooped... - not to self: remember boulderers can't keep up with winter climbers at walk-ins, it's knackering, humiliating and sweaty. Best to just take an easy pace) and me and Boost went for Cosmopolitan. The top crack is a sandbag, especially when it's wet and we had ran out of chalk. The escape route was sketchy, traversing right across the crag on mossy, loose looking rock.


Rich and I headed out to Torridon to meet Dan, one of those wad types who had come up from the south for some bouldering action. Had a great time on the blocs, Malc's Arete is amazing after the hold broke, maybe even better. I fell off the top move a couple of times and thanks to some sloppy pad positioning from Rich, landed in the bog. On my third go, Rich assured me he had the mat manourvers mastered which must have given me extra confidence because I stuck the top sloper. Super classic.

So this wad from England had been busy putting up loads of hard stuff with a calculated and precise style and it was great to see someone super strong, super psyched to climb here. That day, the action was taking place is a secret cave, near the ship. I'd seen this cave before but though it looked impossibly blank. Suppose you just need a bit of vision (not just by letting you're eyes adjust to the gloom) and some climbing skills and the impossible becomes possible. Dan had managed a 7C and was close to another before needing to leave... nice.


Rich and I were left trying a few things, There was a kinda cool thing we did, cool if you like caving, it basically climbs the roof of a narrow through hole and tops out by a tree. Gonna call it Ha-Ha Haar, it's about 7A. Next we climbed the sad piano. After that, I wanted to try Vapour Trail, a mega highball arete. Got psyched... and I was just about at the top when I bottled it. Ahh the stress! I started getting cramp in my elbow and didn't like the slopers so tried to down climb but fell a bit further than I'd have liked to, narrowly missed a boulder ('good skills' said rich) but still manage to hurt my ankle. I think that put me off and the next couple of times I was getting scared because it was windy or because I didn't get my hand in my chalk bag first time...

Since then I'm back in glasgow, doing good amounts of work for my 8 exams. I think one of the most important things of education is that it forces you into situations where there is no way around it but to work hard. That said, I been bowling on the greens at Kelvingrove park a couple of times and finding an excellent stress relief... For now though, back to the books.